Banarasi Saree - A 16th Century Silk Craft
A
TRADITION OF SILK:
16th
Century Craft of Sari Weaving
Introduction
Varanasi, also known as Benares
or Kashi, is a city in northern India famous for its silk sarees. These sarees
are handwoven using ancient techniques and are known for their intricate
designs and high quality. In this blog, we'll explore the history and
significance of the ancient saree weaving craft of Varanasi.
The art of saree weaving in
Varanasi dates back to ancient times. It is believed that the craft was brought
to the city by Lord Shiva himself. According to legend, Lord Shiva wore a silk
saree while meditating on the banks of the Ganges River, and the silk was so
fine and delicate that it became a tradition to weave silk sarees in Varanasi.
The weaving of Varanasi sarees
is a complex process that involves many steps. The process begins with the
selection of the silk yarn, which is sourced from different parts of India. The
yarn is then dyed in different colours using natural dyes made from plants,
roots, and flowers.
The designs on Varanasi sarees
are inspired by traditional Indian motifs and patterns. The sarees are often
adorned with intricate gold and silver embroidery, known as zari work, which
adds to their beauty and elegance. The sarees are also known for their vibrant
colors and the way they shimmer in the light.
Varanasi sarees are worn by
women on special occasions such as weddings, festivals, and other important
events. They are considered to be a symbol of status and are often passed down
from generation to generation as family heirlooms.
In addition to their aesthetic
value, Varanasi sarees also have a significant economic and cultural impact on
the city. The saree weaving industry provides employment to thousands of
people, and the sarees are sold all over India and in many other parts of the
world. The craft is also an important part of Varanasi's cultural heritage, and
the city is known as a hub of traditional Indian weaving.
In recent years, there has been
a renewed interest in traditional crafts and textiles in India, and Varanasi
sarees are once again gaining popularity. Many designers and fashion houses are
incorporating Varanasi sarees into their collections, and there is a growing
demand for these beautiful and unique sarees.
History
of Silk weaving
Silk
weaving flourished in Varanasi between the 16th and 18th centuries when the
Mughal dynasty ruled over India. The Mughals were known for their lavish taste
in architecture, food, and clothing. They were also great patrons of the arts,
including weaving.
During
the Mughal era, silk weaving in Varanasi reached new heights of excellence. The
Mughals brought with them Persian and Central Asian designs, which were
incorporated into Indian designs to create new and unique patterns. The Mughal
emperors and their nobles were fond of wearing silk clothes, including Banarasi
silk sarees, and they also commissioned elaborate carpets and tapestries made
of silk.
The
Mughal emperors also encouraged the growth of silk production in India,
particularly in Varanasi. They provided patronage to silk weavers and
established workshops to produce high-quality silk fabrics. The Mughal era saw
the establishment of the "Guldasta" system, which encouraged weavers
to create new and innovative designs. This system provided incentives to
weavers who came up with new designs and motifs, and it helped to establish
Varanasi as a hub of silk weaving.
Today,
Banarasi silk sarees are still woven using many of the same techniques and
designs that were popular during the Mughal era. The intricate designs, zari
work, and vibrant colors make these sarees a favorite among women all over the
world.
The
Mughal era was a golden age for silk weaving in Varanasi. The patronage of the
Mughal emperors and their nobles helped to establish Varanasi as a center of
excellence for silk weaving. Today, Banarasi silk sarees continue to be a
symbol of luxury and elegance, and they are a testament to the rich cultural
heritage of India.
Process
of Sari Weaving
Banarasi
sarees are known for their intricate designs and high-quality silk. The process
of weaving a Banarasi saree is complex and involves several steps. In this
blog, we'll explore the process of weaving a Banarasi saree.
Selection
of silk: The first step in the process of weaving a Banarasi saree is the
selection of silk. The silk used in Banarasi sarees is of high quality and is
sourced from different parts of India.
Preparation
of silk: Once the silk is selected, it is washed and treated to remove any
impurities. The silk is then dried in the sun and wound onto bobbins.
Designing
the saree: The design of the saree is created on a graph paper by a designer.
The graph paper is then used to guide the weaver in creating the design.
Setting
up the loom: The silk threads are loaded onto the loom and the design is set
up. The loom is operated manually by the weaver, who uses their hands and feet
to create the intricate designs.
Weaving
the saree: The weaving process starts with the creation of the border of the
saree. The border is usually woven in a contrasting color to the body of the
saree. Once the border is complete, the weaver moves on to the body of the
saree. The body is woven with the design that was created on the graph paper.
Embroidery
and embellishments: Once the body of the saree is woven, it is handed over to the
embroiderers who add the zari work (gold and silver embroidery) and other
embellishments like beads and sequins.
Washing
and finishing: Once the saree is complete, it is washed to remove any
impurities and to give it a soft and smooth finish. The saree is then pressed
and packaged for sale.
The
process of weaving a Banarasi saree is time-consuming and requires a high level
of skill and dedication. It can take several weeks to complete one saree,
depending on the complexity of the design. However, the end result is a
beautiful and unique piece of clothing that is treasured by women all over the
world.
Sari
Weaving in 21st Century
Banarasi
sarees are known for their intricate and detailed designs, and some of the most
elaborate designs can sell for thousands of dollars. However, the market for
fake Banarasi sarees has become increasingly prevalent since the mid-1980s.
The
demand for Banarasi sarees has always been high, and the intricate designs and
high-quality silk used in these sarees make them quite expensive. The weavers
of Banarasi sarees spend weeks or even months creating each saree, and the
level of skill required to produce these sarees is quite high.
However,
with the increasing demand for Banarasi sarees, there has been a rise in the
production of fake Banarasi sarees. These sarees are often made using
low-quality silk, and the designs are replicated using machines rather than
being handwoven. These fake sarees can be sold for as low as 2500 Indian rupees
or $31.
The
production of fake Banarasi sarees has had a negative impact on the weavers of
Banarasi sarees. The weavers, who take great pride in their craft, are
struggling to compete with the cheaper, machine-made sarees flooding the
market. This has resulted in a decline in the demand for authentic Banarasi
sarees, and many weavers have been forced to switch to other professions.
The
Indian government has taken steps to protect the weavers of Banarasi sarees and
to combat the production of fake sarees. The Geographical Indication (GI) tag
has been given to Banarasi sarees, which means that only sarees produced in
Varanasi and surrounding areas using traditional techniques and high-quality
silk can be sold as Banarasi sarees.
In conclusion, while the demand
for Banarasi sarees continues to be high, the production of fake sarees has had
a negative impact on the weavers of these sarees. The ancient saree weaving
craft of Varanasi is a testament to the rich cultural heritage of India. The
intricate designs and high quality of these sarees are a reflection of the
skill and dedication of the weavers who create them. The production of fake
sarees has also made it difficult for consumers to identify authentic Banarasi
sarees. The GI tag has been a positive step towards protecting the weavers of
Banarasi sarees and ensuring that consumers get authentic sarees. Whether
you're a fashion lover or a history buff, a Varanasi saree is a must-have in
your wardrobe.
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